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Car Repairing Videos. Front Axle Replacement. Front Left Inner Rack Boot Fixing. ♦DIY CAM♦

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Car Repairing Videos. Front Axle Replacement. Front Left Inner Rack Boot Fixing. ♦DIY CAM♦
This video has been taken with Creative Commons CC BY license from channel «OGH - Off Grid Homesteading». There is reference to author video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gnSWSs1ORvE

Replacing a front-wheel-drive axle is straightforward, although physically demanding. Get the replacement axle before you start, as well as a new spindle nut and a cotter pin or two. The counterman at the auto parts store will be able to tell you what you need and if the spindle nut needs to be replaced every time it's removed. There may be a new spindle nut in the box with the axle assembly.

Start by loosening all the lug nuts on the wheel that you'll be working on with the car on the ground. Jack up the car and set the whole front end on proper safety stands, as high as you can. You'll need both wheels off the ground to allow enough suspension droop.

You'll need a big socket to remove the spindle nut. A large crescent wrench or pipe wrench is not an acceptable substitute. Borrow, rent or buy the right socket and a flex handle with at least an 18-in. handle, because that nut may be torqued to as much as 300 lb.-ft. You can use an air wrench to loosen it if you have compressed air available.

At this point procedures may vary slightly, depending on your vehicle's suspension. Consult your shop manual for specifics, but for the most part you'll need to do the following.

Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end, and pop the tie rod end out of the steering arm. If it's frozen, don't whack the end of the threaded shank with a hammer; you'll probably just ding the threads. Leave the castellated nut a few threads on, and use a big screwdriver or pry bar to lift the steering arm up. Then, smack the rod end a good shot with a hammer and it should pop right out. An alternative is to use two ball-peen hammers and hit both sides of the steering arm simultaneously. There are also threaded pullers for really stubborn cases. If you don't mind destroying the rubber boot on the rod end, you can use a crowbar or a "pickle fork" puller.

Disconnect the ball joint from the suspension upright. You probably can do this by loosening and then removing the pinch bolt at the bottom of the shock. Pull the lower control arm down until the ball joint separates from the steering upright.

This is where it gets tricky. On some vehicles you're in a position to pull the suspension upright and outward enough to let the spindle shaft fall free of its bearing. On many vehicles the suspension arm won't droop far enough. You'll need to disconnect the sway bar and perhaps another suspension piece. Try disconnecting the sway bar, and using a big pry bar and a helper to get the ball joint to clear.

POPPING THE AXLE OUT

Methods of attaching the axle at the transmission end vary. Our example vehicle uses a spring ring that snaps into a groove. We simply used a big pry bar to pop it out. On other vehicles, there's a snap ring that needs to be removed with snap ring pliers to allow the axle to clear the transmission. Check beforehand because using a pry bar until one of these came loose probably would be a bad idea.

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